• The First “Variable Jewellery System” in Modern Jewellery Design.



  • 1968 was a very important year for society in Germany and throughout Europe. The first postwar generation vociferously attracted attention to its new values. Jörg Heinz, who was born in 1942, studied with Professor Reinhold Reiling at the School of Arts and Crafts in Pforzheim, where he experienced new values in modern jewellery of the contemporary era. After a four-year sojourn in Denmark, where he became acquainted with Scandinavia’s modern designer jewellery and where he met his future wife Irene, he returned to his native town in 1968. This same year, he founded his business on the premises of his parents’ home at Ring Strasse 4. He began by developing pearl jewellery, primarily one-of-a-kind pieces and small series. It took plenty of effort to convince jewelers to sell these items: competition was very strong in Pforzheim’s booming jewellery industry, but innovative design was scarcely in demand in the late 1960s.

In his jewellery designs, as well as in discussions with customers, the young designer and goldsmith discovered the “Achilles’ heel” of every choker: the clasp. Throughout the history of jewellery culture, jewellery designers had viewed the closure – often a simple hook – as an unloved and often neglected necessity. Reaching behind to open a choker’s clasp at the nape of the neck was both awkward and problematic for its wearer. After intensive contemplation and experimentation, Jörg Heinz discovered a surprising solution in 1974. He put the clasp into the center of the passion for jewellery and transformed it into the attractive centerpiece of the choker. The epoch during which closures had led a twilight existence had come to a clos